Wow. Today was quite a day. We started at 9:00 with a guest speaker, Luvuyo, who was an EESA client for 3 years. He began in business by selling used computers in the townships, then moved on to the internet café business, and finally is profiting heavily from computer training. He has 17 locations in different townships around Cape Town, which is really impressive. He also has future growth plans in the smartphone industry. One of the most interesting things he said, to me, was that even though he has been highly successful, he never wants to move the business out of the townships. He is passionate about giving back to the communities he was raised in, but also knows that there is a huge market for computer training in the townships whereas there may not be in the city.
Around noon, we left for a tour of Langa and Guguletu, two townships near the University. It was a long tour, about 4 hours, but it was amazing. It turns out that the tour company is one of the clients for this year, and is owned by the son of Namonde. Two of his partners, also from the township, gave us the tour. I expected to see corrugated metal shacks with dirt roads, which I saw plenty of. We were able to go in one woman’s home: a single room with two beds that is home to 16 people. We tried to fit 15 people standing up, and even that was a squeeze. Besides the realization of how small some of the living quarters actually are, I was surprised at the disparity even in the township. There are some concrete, even some brick, houses with gates and two cars in the township. The tour guides said that professors and other professionals live in those homes. We did notice that there were bars on all of the windows.
Despite the conditions, the townships were beautiful. There was a lot of activity, as the children were just getting out of school. The children were keen to run up and hold our hands, or just stand there and stare. The guide informed us that the word we kept hearing them shout means “white person”, with a positive and affectionate connotation, in Xhosa. Most of the homes were brightly painted, and on one main street, Harlem Ave, plates hanging on the outside of the home proudly displayed the names of popular South African politicians, doctors, and artists who once lived in the home.
We also visited an arts center, where children can go afterschool to work on skills like pottery, painting, or music. One room had about 15 different African drums, and although two students were in the middle of a lesson, the teacher invited us in to try out the drums. He conducted everyone and the result was very impressive!
We were told at the beginning of the tour that we would have the opportunity to try “Smiley”, or sheep’s head. They said we would see why it is called Smiley, and sure enough… the uncooked heads were sitting on a table, not missing any fur. The head was seasoned and cooked with a blowtorch. If anyone can believe it, I tried it. The seasoning was fine, but the texture was like beef fat; I’m not sure that I’ll be having that again, even though the tour guides said it was a delicacy.
I think the most important thing I learned today was that although conditions are less than ideal, residents of the townships seem to be very proud of their home and may not have any interest in leaving. The community is very strong. I can’t wait to meet our clients.